Why you should avoid Alitalia at all costs!

Every airline overbooks, but most have customer service departments that actually care about making it right for their customers. Instead, Alitalia is unique in its care-free attitude that plunges their customers into the depths of limbo, despair and agony. They will make you wait in line for HOURS.

Their employees are one or more of the following:
a. lazy
b. incompetent
c. competent and hard working, but disaffected from having to deal with coworkers who are a. and/or b. and/or d.
d. Undermotivated by a labor system that virtually guarantees employment and pension benefits, which soon turns into a 'I dare you to try to fire me, because then I'll just sit at home and collect money and benefits until the case is dismissed 6 years later, and I'll be paid just the same' attitude that, well, let's just say, does not exist in most 2nd world nations.

They will not honor lines, or people who have waited in lines the longest. They abide by the Italian mantra, whoever arrives at the front first must deserve to be there, whether they cheat, use some fabricated excuse or just barge their way past elderly, disabled, or children. Remember, this is a country that has re-elected Berlusconi several times.

Fiumicino airport is a nightmare, and I have spent hours upon hours waiting for Alitalia and other assorted airport employees to check my bag, return my bag, figure out alternative arrangements for their overbooked flights. I have flown to Rome several times. If I return to Rome, I will fly a European, British, or American airline. I will not fly Alitalia. And by the way, they code share with Delta Airlines, so, you could end up in the Alitalia nightmare if you book with Delta.

Good luck.

If you do find yourself with Alitalia tickets, know that they will NOT check you bags more than 3 hours before the flight. Bring something to read/listen to in line, because you WILL wait in line. Try to check in online.

If you doubt my credibility, just do a google search for "alitalia sucks" or "never fly alitalia" to read others.

Matt's Abbreviated Guide to Rome

Matt’s Rome list

Things to know:

1. If you have not booked a flight yet, click here.

Before you go: Packing

1. Bring TWO pair of comfortable walking shoes. Even if you plan to take taxis everywhere, you will walk a lot. Transportation is a major problem for reasons both majestic (narrow, historic streets) and pathetic (inadequate subway, buses and rail). (note on transport - On buses and trains, you are supposed to punch a ticket, but rarely does anyone check. Many Romans have monthly passes and therefore will not stamp their tickets. At rail stations, you are also supposed to put your ticket in the yellow box before boarding. You will be fined if you are caught without punching your ticket.)

2. Guide books: There are many good ones, but for a no-nonsense run down of the history of places, consider the Blue Guide. It has useful maps and more history than you will need.

3. From the airport (Fiumicino aka FCO aka Da Vinci) the express train the Da Vinci, is not particularly express, and lets you off over ½ mile from the actual Termini rail station. They do this, presumably, so that you are forced to take a cab, and you are shielded from hectic Roman street life. Unfortunately, there are no convenient alternatives, but if you are traveling with a companion or two, a cab is reasonable (about 45Euros downtown from Fiumicino).

When you are there:

1. Many Roman stores observe the afternoon siesta – shops close from 1-4pm. Many churches are closed from 12-3, 4 or 5.
2. Attire: Many churches forbid shorts and tank tops. This is strictly enforced at St. Peter’s, even in August swelter, so make sure that shoulders and knees are covered.

Things to see:
There are many, many famous ‘must see’ things to see, so these are just some thoughts.

1. Pantheon – Must see during the day and during the night. After the Pantheon, go past it to the right - turn on Via Palombella - there is the Miscellanea bar/restaurant right there. If you go at lunch, get a turkey sandwich and request the salsa rosa. Also, try a glass of fragolino (strawberry champagne). This spot is a favorite of college study abroad students. You may spot the proprietor, Mickey, wearing some sort of American t-shirt (Yankees, Bears, Celtics...) that one of his many friends have brought him. After lunch or dinner there, continue down Via Palombella, notice the church with the head of a buck on top. This is the Sant' Eustachio church. Next, get a gran' caffe at Caffe Sant'Eustachio. This is a coffee lovers paradise. If you make your way to the back of the caffe, on the corridor on the way to the bathroom you might see the bags of Brazilian beans sitting in the backroom on the left. Breathe in deep through your nose if you like the smell of coffee. p.s. The Parthenon sits on the Acropolis in Athens.
2. Piazza Navona and Campo de Fiori (day and night)
3. Paintings of Caravaggio (Pza Del Popolo, Capitoline Museum, San Luigi dei Francesi (between Pza. Navona and Pantheon), Villa Borghese Gallery)
4. Bridge to Castel Sant’ Angelo. (the interior of the Castle is okay and there is a nice view from the roof, but certainly not unmissable.)
5. Aventine Hill – nice church, nice park, nice view. Good place to relax a bit.
6. St. Peter’s & Vatican Museum (Sistine Chapel)
7. Villa Borghese Gallery for the Bernini sculptures. ()
8. Trastevere – ‘Across the Tiber’ is a good place to stroll at night with a gelato or duck into a bar for a glass of wine.

9. Coliseum
10. Roman and Imperial Forum – The center of the Roman empire.
11. Circus Maximus – imagine chariot races.


12. Via del Corso – the main shopping thoroughfare – window shopping and strolling.
13. Spanish Steps – a good place to sit and watch people, consume gelato.

14. Trevi Fountain – Of ‘Three Coins in a Fountain’ fame. Also featured in La Dolce Vita - .
15. Via Veneto – Expensive restaurants and hotels, American Embassy and the Hard Rock Café - so, if you want to make sure to have a completely non-Roman experience, hang out here, and bring your credit card.

16. Quirinale – The official home of the Italian President (not the Prime Minister) Great view of Rome particularly at sunset. Changing of the guard ()

17. The Ecstasy of Saint Teresa in the Santa Maria della Vittoria church.

Artists:

Michelangelo – Painter/sculptor of some repute.
Raphael – Rafael rooms in Vatican Museum (en route to Sistine Chapel)
Bernini – Sculptor -well known works in Galleria Borghese, Ecstasy of Saint Teresa).
Borromini – Architect -well known works include Carlo alle Quattro Fontane, Sant' Ivo alla Sapienza
Caravaggio – Painter - see above list of works.

Food:
You can't really go wrong, but a few Roman dishes worth trying: Bucatini all'Amatriciana - Large spaghetti with a tomato/bacon* sauce. (the 'bacon' is actually guanciale, from the pigs' jaw). Cacio Pepe (Pasta with cheese and pepper - it's all ya need).

Best Places for:

1. Gelato - The nearest one available 15-20 minutes after dinner and lunch. – or if you insist, near the Vatican museum, Old Bridge has very good, and Very large servings, Giolitti and San Crispino are also quite famous.
2. Coffee: Sant’Eustachio –always competes with Tazza D'oro for best coffee (espresso/cappuccino) honors.  Located either side of the pantheon, decide for yourself.
3. Pizza – The pizza places I know best are off of the beaten path, but others swear by Baffetto